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Playa del Carmen, Mexico.

No, this sculpture isn’t in the sleepy beach town that I’ll you about if the left hemisphere of my brain doesn’t talk me out of it. The sleepy beach town that I loved so much on my recent trip does not have that gigantic, beautiful sculpture. That’s in Playa del Carmen where I arrived after taking the ferry from San Miguel, Cozumel.

My goal on this trip was to evaluate two towns in Mexico in my quest to choose my next home. My one set in stone demand is that my future home is close enough to a beach where I can grab a cuppa in the morning and walk to waves and have my toes in the sand. See below. I was teaching myself to order coffee in Spanish at 7:21 a.m. across the street from the beach. If you’re a traveler, keep the Google translate app handy on the front screen of your phone.

(Just a couple days after that trip, my desire to move somewhere warm and sunny was reinforced when at home the outdoor temp was 8 degrees (-13 degrees celsius) and we had about 10 inches of snow) The first four nights of my trip were in the very colorful town of San Miguel on the island of Cozumel.

There are many wonderful things about Cozumel; the jungles, the Aztec ruins, fantasic restaurants and that it’s surrounded by warm Caribbean water. But…during the day when the cruise ships deposit another couple thousands of tourists into San Miguel and it feels like Spring Break all day most days. My friend Bel, who writes for International Living and lives on the island several blocks north of the madness, says that her neighborhood is nothing like the port area. The best time to visit San Miguel, Cozumel is likely to be during the summer months if you want to avoid the crowds. When I retire, I don’t want to have to battle crowds just to get to Starbucks or the beach at 7:00 in the morning.

So after I took the ferry to the mainland, I rented a car and drove north to the beach town that might change my life.

An evening view from my hotel.

I had arrived at my AirBNB earlier and it was literally a 50 yard walk to the beach. I hated it though, so I moved to a very affordable mom and pop hotel that had this view. It was completely stunning how affordable this hotel was. I took the above picture from my balcony. It wasn’t super luxurious, but I just used it to sleep eight hours each night.  I’ll give you the name at the end of this article.

Keep in mind that I was visiting this small beach town during the high season. It was the first week of January, the time when so many northerners from Canada and the States flood Mexico for half a year to get away from the snow. And I walked into a hotel and got the best room in the building immediately. I’m not saying that it was a bad hotel. It wasn’t. I’m saying that just about every other beach town like Tulum or any of the Playa named towns on the east side of Mexico were likely Spring Break for the over 60 set.

Am I advertising for Corona? Not necessarily, but if they want to sponsor my travels if I keep taking pictures like this, I won’t complain.

Everyone’s question when they are looking to move to other countries is “Is the cost of living really less than at home. The answer is yes, with a caveat. I was stayling down by the beach and I was only there three days. I’d estimate that restaurant meal prices were about 25% less than in the States. Walking down the street I was chatted up by a Canadian woman who said she lived in the middle of town and her impression was that the further you are from the beach, the costs get lower. I didn’t need to go away from the beach area though because there was a supermarket in this town that rivals any supermarket in the States.

One thing that I loved about this community was the music. One evening I was just walking around the neighborhood and I heard music. I followed the music until I  found a very nice three floor restaurant called La Sirena. Each floor had something different going on, and I followed the beautiful Spanish music to the third floor open air bar where people were dancing with reckless abandon. Loud, happy, and spinning everywhere. I stepped into the middle of the celebration and soaked in the joyous atmosphere.

I was so immersed in the moment that I didn’t take a picture. This is from La Sirena’s website.

But the intoxicating Spanish music wasn’t just at this bar, it was everywhere. There were traditional troubadours who would just walk up to the outdoor seating of restaurants. During the day there were traditional mariachi bands that would set up on a sidewalk. On the beaches there were traditional Aztec singers and dancers. Also, near my hotel there was a Music Hall that had live classic rock for the the over 60 folks visiting town. One night they had a great alt rock band too.

At 4:00 pm they block off the main street so the restaurants can have outside seating. Look at that picture! During the busy season for heading south and the street is so chill.

This (below) was my favorite coffee shop and it’s named The Local Cafe. Absolutely great!

Open at 7:00 a.m.

So where is this incredible sleepy beach town? It’s Puerto Morelos, which is about halfway between Cancun and Tulum. The next time you’re in Mexico, don’t drive by the Puerto Morelos exit to spend more in Cancun or Tulum. I’d rather stay here.

Thanks for reading!  ~Phil

If you haven’t read me before, I’m recently 60 year old Phil Taylor, author of ThePhilFactor, one of the longest running blogs in the history of the Earth, and a handful of novels. In June, my lovely wife of 33 years passed away. After six months finding my emotional stability, I decided that I had enough cold snowy winters in upstate New York. You know when you see those reports of Buffalo, New York getting several feet of snow? I live in that part of the state. So, long story short, I decided to, as my Aussie writer friend Bel Woodhouse would say, go for a “walkabout” to find where I fit in the world. Right now, I’m officially 5,434 kilometers from home and I couldn’t be happier. Everything hasn’t been perfect, but that’s how I like it. It’s my goal to get a real feel for living on the island of Cozumel.

First off, let’s talk about AirBNB’s. Mine is fine. It’s a small apartment, which is all I really need for one guy on his own. It’s walking distance to everything in the town. I like that.  It would be nice if there weren’t roosters crowing at 4 a.m. as if someone was tearing them apart. I don’t like that. But you know what? If i choose to stay here I’ll get used to the roosters. They are up only marginally earlier than me. Yesterday I had a fantastic day all over the island with my friend Bel Woodhouse who is International Living’s Mexico correspondent, and that’s really what this article is about.

Me & friend/writer/artist Bel Woodhouse

One thing to know is that Cozumel isn’t a big island but it’s also not small. It’s about 30 miles from end to end and it’s about ten miles wide. I’m sorry that I’m not fully versed in the metric system, but by the end of my journey, I will be. Most tourists visit the island and only see the first four or five blocks from the port where their cruise ship parked. When you go, don’t be that tourist. There is so much more to Cozemel than bars and t-shirt shops.

Apparently, anything might be crossing the road.

If you’ve ever taken a cruise that stopped at San Miguel, Cozumel, you probably didn’t wander into the jungle. I know some of the bars are wild, but they’re not the only jungle in Cozumel. If learning that Cozumel is an island is new to you, you are not alone. I’m not referring to me, but I know someone who had been to Cozumel on a cruise and had no idea that it wasn’t part of the mainland. Don’t be that tourist.

The Mayan ruins is a must see stop when you’re on Cozumel. These aren’t the only ones either. For about $5-$10 American you can have your own personal guide take you through all the ruins in a site.

I was lucky enough to persuade this lovely lady to pose with me. I think we’re engaged now.

You can get up close to some of the Mayan ruins, but you can’t climb all over them. You might not want to because the ruins are truly in the jungle and there’s some jungle residents who think that you’re in their neighborhood,  such as this impressive neighboorhood watch member.

After the ruins visit, we went to the Mayan Bee Sanctuary. At first I was feeling my skin crawl at the idea of intentionally being near bees. But these are special bees. No stingers, they just make some really delicious honey. Winnie the Pooh would get himself into big trouble here.

The bee is not actual size, but I am!

Following our tours of the ruins and the bees, Bel and I visited a tiny village in the jungle that has been there for centuries. Other than a tiny, beautiful church, it also had a tequila maker that had free tastings, and it was fantastic. If you haven’t heard, Mexico is good at tequila. After that visit we headed to the beach for lunch…

Lunch on the beach. No crowds, no cruises, just this quiet little place. Places like this still live on Cozumel.

So this has been my first steps into the rest of the world to see where I want to be for the next chapter of my story. Maybe I end up here in Mexico, or maybe somewhere else. It was such a perfect first day that I felt that I had to end the day with this:

Bel, thanks for your help. Folks if you have any interest in moving to Mexico, you can find Bel on IG as thetravelbag.guru and at International Living. I may not look all that big in this picture, but the whole world just became a whole lot smaller for me. Thank you for reading and thanks for coming along for the ride. ~Phil

P.S. As someone who has worked in and around the medical industry for over 30 years, when you go on a long trip like this, before you go, pack some medical basics like ibuprofen, band-aids, Neosporin and sun screen. Traveling the world is nice but having a medical issue pop up can ruin a “Trip of a lifetime.”